Abi Gamin, also known as Ibi Gamin is a snow clad peak situated 2km north east of Kamet peak. It is located in the central Himalayas, right at the point where Zaskar Range ends. It lies on the northern border of Chamoli district, where India meets Tibet. In the immediate vicinity, Abi Gamin is the second highest peak after Kamet and also one of the 15 seven-thousand metre peaks. Abi Gamin is connected to Kamet with a South-west saddle known as Meade’s Col. Abi Gamin lies in the Kamet region of peaks.
After numerous failed attempts to climb this enormous peak, first successful ascent was completed in 1950 by a small Anglo-Swiss expedition team. They approached from the north side through Tibet. First successful Indian expedition to ascent Abi Gamin was done in 1953 and 1955.
Govind Joshi, a 17-year old climber became the youngest climber to ascent Abi Gamin in 1988. He achieved this feat without the oxygen aid and resorted to a strict vegetarian diet.
Abi Gamin can be ascended via three different routes:
- Northeast Ridge ((by Mana pass and Mang Gang glacier)
- Purbi Kamet glacier — Meade’s Col — Southwest Ridge
- Northwest Ridge
Out of these three, ascent from the SW ridge via Meade’s Col is considered the easiest route out of all three.
HOW TO REACH
The trek to Abi Gamin commences from Joshimath in Chamoli district of Uttarakhand. Joshimath – Markari – Nitti – Sapukaharak – Nand –Kharak – Base Camp – CI – CII — CIII and CIV then summit.
- ROAD: Joshimath has good connectivity of roads from cities like Rishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun. One can reach to these places from Delhi and get a bus or shared taxi to Joshimath. The buses usually leave early morning from places like Haridwar and Rishikesh.
- RAIL: Joshimath doesn’t have a railhead. Nearest railway station to Joshimath is situated in Haridwar. Haridwar is connected with major cities like Delhi, Ahmadabad and Dehradun.
- AIR: The nearest airport to Joshimath is Jolly Grant situated in Dehradun. From there, one can opt for a bus or a taxi to reach Joshimath.