Kamet Peak

7756 mts
Chamoli

Situated in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, Kamet is the second highest mountain in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, after Nanda Devi. In appearance, it resembles a giant pyramid topped by a flat summit area with two peaks. The West (Pachmi or Paschimi) Kamet Glacier, the East (Purbi or Purva) Kamet Glacier and the Raikana Glacier systems surround Kamet.

HISTORY

While attempts to climb Kamet began in 1855, the first ascent was not made until 1931 by Frank Smythe, Eric Shipton, R.L. Holdsworth and Lewa Sherpa, members of a British expedition. On their descent via a different route, they discovered a hidden paradise known today as Valley of Flowers.

CLIMBING ROUTES

  • Southwest Face
  • East Kamet Glacier
  • Southeast face

HOW TO REACH

The standard route begins from the East Kamet (or Purbi Kamet) Glacier, ascending via Meade’s Col, the saddle between Kamet and its northern outlier Abi Gamin. The ascent to Meade’s col involves steep gullies, a rock wall, and several glacier climbs. Five camps are usually placed en route. The final ascent to the summit involves steep snow, possibly icy. Nearest town to Kamet is Joshimath.

  • ROAD: Joshimath has good connectivity of roads from cities like Rishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun. One can reach to these places from Delhi and get a bus or shared taxi to Joshimath. The buses usually leave early morning from places like Haridwar and Rishikesh.
  • RAIL: Joshimath doesn’t have a railhead. Nearest railway station to Joshimath is situated in Haridwar. Haridwar is connected with major cities like Delhi, Ahmadabad and Dehradun.
  • AIR: The nearest airport to Joshimath is Jolly Grant situated in Dehradun. From there, one can opt for a bus or a taxi to reach Joshimath.

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