Thalay Sagar Peak

6904 mts
Uttarkashi-Tehri Garhwal

Situated in the Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand, Thalay Sagar is a mountain that lies in the Garhwal Himalayas on the main ridge that lies south of the Gangotri Glacier. It is the second highest peak on the south side of the Gangotri Glacier (after Kedarnath), but it is more notable for being a dramatic rock peak, steep on all sides, and a famed prize for mountaineers.


The steep profile of Thalay Sagar prevented mountaineers from climbing the peak until 1970s. However, when technical rock climbing was started practicing at high altitude, Thalay Sagar was always back of the mind of mountaineers.

Finally on 1979, it was first climbed via the northwest couloir and ridge, by an Anglo-American team comprising Roy Kligfield, John Thackray, and Pete Thexton.


  • Northwest ridge
  • Southeast ridge
  • North face


One needs to travel to Dehradun from Delhi. From Dehradun, buses and taxis are easily available to Uttarkashi. From Uttarkashi, take a bus to the Gangotri. From there, Tapovan is at a trekking distance where base camp is set up.

  • ROAD: Dehradun has good connectivity of buses from Delhi. One can get a bus to Dehradun. The bus service is available all day with buses leaving every half an hour.
  • RAIL: Dehradun Railway Station is situated at a distance of about 2 km from the city center. Major cities like Delhi, Kolkata, Varanasi, Ujjain and Indore are connected by regular as well as frequent train services from the main city.
  • AIR: Jolly Grant situated in Dehradun which is well connected with major cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Bangalore etc.

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