Abi Gamin Peak

Abi Gamin, also known as Ibi Gamin is a snow clad peak situated 2km north east of Kamet peak. It is located in the central Himalayas, right at the point where Zaskar Range ends. It lies on the northern border of Chamoli district, where India meets Tibet.

 In the immediate vicinity, Abi Gamin is the second highest peak after Kamet and also one of the 15 seven-thousand metre peaks. Abi Gamin is connected to Kamet with a South-west saddle known as Meade's Col. Abi Gamin lies in the Kamet region of peaks.

After numerous failed attempts to climb this enormous peak, first successful ascent was completed in 1950 by a small Anglo-Swiss expedition team. They approached from the north side through Tibet. First successful Indian expedition to ascent Abi Gamin was done in 1953 and 1955.Govind Joshi, a 17-year old climber became the youngest climber to ascent Abi Gamin in 1988. He achieved this feat without the oxygen aid and resorted to a strict vegetarian diet.

Abi Gamin can be ascended via three different routes:

Out of these three, ascent from the SW ridge via Meade’s Col is considered the easiest route out of all three.

The trek to Abi Gamin commences from Joshimath in Chamoli district of Uttarakhand. Joshimath – Markari – Nitti – Sapukaharak – Nand –Kharak – Base Camp – CI – CII -- CIII and CIV then summit.

Posted by: eUttaranchal/ Bhupendra Kunwar
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